DIY Solar Generator - Complete Instructions with Diagrams - Spherical Solar (2023)

Building a weatherproof DIY solar generator involves assembling and connecting a battery, charge controller, inverter, trickle charger, and fuses in a weatherproof box. Then all relevant input and output jacks are connected and easily accessible on the outside of the case.

What exactly are solar generators?

The term solar generator can confuse many people. You might associate "generator" with the noisy gasoline-powered bundle that rumbles in the back of camp. A necessary evil to contend with when looking for AC locally.

And this is where the solar generator really shines. Often referred to as a solar power plant or solar power plant, a solar generator is essentially a fully functional solar power grid in a suitcase. With a twist though, since you can charge your batteries with electrical power, the car's alternator works beyond the obvious inputs of the solar panel.

They are quiet, portable, and if they are big enough, a solar powered generator can power anything that would use an inflator. Also, when they don't use gas or propane, they are a point that makes them very attractive, true power outages, emergencies or disaster relief power sources. And all this with free and abundant solar energy.

What you need for your DIY solar generator kit

Here are all the necessary parts for your solar generator kit:

DIY Solar Generator

• suitcase with wheels
• 3000/6000 Watt Inverter
• Painel Solar 100 Watt
• 40-A-MPPT-Load Rules
• Battery Plus Universal battery compartment
• battery caretaker
• 15 amp AC outlet plug
• 20-A-GFCI-Steckdose más Hubbell-Bell Single Flip Cover
• 150A circuit breaker
• Round 6-pin Hopkins vehicle connector plus trailer-ready 6-pin flat pin connector
• 12 volt 2 way plug with switch and meter
• 175 Amp Anderson Plug Assembly Kit Plus 175 Amp 600 Volt Plug Battery Connector
• 6 Way Flat Car Fuse with LED Illumination, Holder
• Minibarra 100A

Check the prices of all the pieces in this listing

Consumables to make your own solar generator

• Self-adhesive brackets for cable ties
• silicone gasket maker
• Assortment of washers and screws
• Variety of standard fuses
• Rubber gland set
• Crimp connection set
• Ring-Kit
• Calibrate the primary cable
• Measure the primary cable
• grounded power cord
• battery cable sets
• cable ties

Check the prices of all consumables in this list

Tools to assemble your solar generator kit

• Automatic wire stripper with cutting device
• Ratchet Clamp Crimper
• Corded or cordless drill
• hole selection
• Cylindrical bore tool (optional)
• Saber Saw (optional but great for cutouts)
• puzzle with blades
• Lochsägen Set
• Round and flat files
• heavy duty wire cutters

Check the prices of all the tools on this list

Not all of these points are crucial when building your own solar generator. For the most part, though, they're a great addition to a DIY enthusiast's arsenal and well worth the investment.

Let's see what DIY and commercial solar generators are made of.

What's in the box of the DIY solar generator?

batteries

in everyone's heartcommercial solar generatoris one or more batteries. The batteries used in solar generators are usually of the marine gel or glass mat type. Flooded batteries are not suitable due to the risk of leakage when the solar panels are used in different orientations.

In the case of DIY solar generators, builders can choose to build a custom battery using individual LiPo cells or purchase a ready-made battery. If you're building your own DIY portable solar generator, the store-bought battery option is best.

solar charging rules

As in any fixed solar installation, the charging of the batteries of the solar generators is managed by a charge controller. Builders can use PWM or MPPT controllers andthe typemisizingof the controller depend on the design specifications. These include the physical space available in the case, the size of the battery, and the types and capacity of solar charging ports.

DC-AC inverter

A solar generator inverter takes the DC (direct current) output from the battery and converts it to AC (alternating current), like electricity from a household outlet. Again, the details of the solar power generation project will determine which inverter to choose. Many people advocate pure sine wave inverters for solar generators, but they are not strictly necessary.

fans and ventilation controls

The most common method for home solar generator builders to ventilate and cool equipment is to use computer type fans mounted on the sides of the case. Solar generators heat but auxiliary fans are not required if the inverter is well ventilated.

electrical protection

A well built DIY solar generator would include circuit breakers or reset fuses to protect the user and the components from over current and short circuit situations. For the most part, solar generators use components that include extensive standard protection.

Diagnostic and programming modules

These modules display all of the solar generator system specifications, including battery status, charge rates, current draw, and component temperatures.

DC to DC Buck Converter

A buck converter is essentially a step-down transformer that takes a 48 volt DC input and converts it to 12 volts. A buck converter is a must if your DIY portable solar generator uses a 24 or 48 volt battery.

battery caretaker

This kit is an AC charger that allows you to charge your DIY solar generator battery from an electrical outlet while the generator is idle or in storage.

Inputs, outputs and switching

This is one of the areas where a DIY solar generator will outperform store-bought models. They decide exactly what plugs and outlets you need and include items you might not find in Walmart models.

However, typical outlet designs in solar panels include high-voltage AC outlets, low-voltage cigarette lighter outlets, USB ports, and high-load Anderson-type quick-connect receptacles.

Input connections are typically MC 4 solar panel connectors and inputs suitable for any external power supplies you wish to include. Switches typically include a system on/off switch, switches for specific outputs, and switches for accessories.

Accessories

One of the most commonly included accessories for DIY solar generators are work lights. These are typically types of LEDs that are a great useful addition to solar generators.

What's outside the box of the solar generator?

solar panels and cables

The final components of a home-built solar generator and the only ones not included are the solar panels, cables, and any other connection or extension cables. The choice of solar panels for any DIY solar generator depends on the specifications of the generator. These can range from traditional rigid panels to collapsible or flexible panel assemblies.

If you intend to use other non-solar external AC or DC power sources to charge the batteries of your solar generators, you will need to bring a jumper or appropriate extension cables with appropriate plugs or connectors.

Now that we have an overview of the main components, let us walk you through building a simple yet very functional and powerful DIY solar generator.

Now we come to our step-by-step building instructions for our DIY solar generator.

Step by Step Guide to a DIY 3000 Watt Solar Power Generator

The core concept behind this DIY solar generator project was high production capacity and good comfort without excessive amounts. We wanted to build a DIY solar generator to bridge the gap between the overnight pocket models and the massive industrial types. Something that has the power to be efficient in most applications while still being easy to load and run.

So before we dive into this DIY solar generator building guide, let's look at our choices for key components and give you an idea of ​​why we chose them.

The Pelican 1620 Protective Case

we choose themAutumn 1620due to its rugged MilSpec construction, spacious interior, luggage-style wheels, and retractable handle. It is a common choice for DIY projects that require a lot of space, robust construction and excellent weather resistance, perfect for solar generators.

An Optima D34M battery

oTapa Optima Azul D34MIt is a deep cycle, heavy duty, dry fiberglass marine battery. We chose this particular type over lithium-ion batteries due to its excellent performance and true deep-cycle specifications. You can mount them in any orientation without leaks, damage, or performance degradation is a major consideration for solar generators.

Or Warrior 3000/6000 Watt Inverter

AndKriegerWith 3,000 watts of continuous power and a peak power of 6,000 watts, this inverter has enough power to comfortably operate most devices and systems. Although this is more of a modified sine wave than aPure Sine Wave Inverter, is perfect for this application. A pure sine wave inverter is required to run sensitive electronic equipment, but not a portable solar generator.

Oder BougeRV MPPT 40A Charge Controller

We chooseBougeRV 40A MPPT Charge Controllerfor many reasons. One of the concepts behind this project was to build a DIY portable solar generator that would perform at its best in all conditions. When building your own DIY solar generator, this operational flexibility is key.

MPPT controllers can handle much higher solar panel voltage inputs than PWM types. This would allow you to connect multiple solar panels together.panels in series, providing much higher charge counts for longer periods of time during the day. This would also be a great boost in shady and cloudy areas orcloudy weatherwhere solar energy is minimized.

The Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Solar Panel

Most solar panels that are designed to be "portable" offer a maximum output of 30 watts. In fact, many won't make much more than 10. Add cloudy weather, shady spots, and short days and you might as well forego solar and buy a gas generator.

oPainel Renogy 100 WattIt's less portable but not terminal and has plenty of power. Combining it with additional solar panels is also a good option, as the DIY solar generator would easily handle up to 100 volts of solar radiation. If you're building your own DIY solar generator, panel expansion is an option to keep open.

Assembling the components of the DIY solar generator

We'll use a suggested layout for all the components of the DIY solar generator that will work well in this build guide. That means it is just a guide and you can customize your own solar generator according to your specific construction needs or equipment.

SUPERVISION:All the diagrams used in this guide represent the DIY solar generator box and components quite accurately in terms of dimensions. However, you must carefully consider the location when assembling the components.

internal component

Here is a schematic of the internal dimensions of the 1620 case and the proposed internal component layout for the DIY solar generator.

mount the battery

The battery is located at the bottom of the wheel end of the box. This places the heaviest component under the wheels to provide the best battery support and balance the DIY solar generator build.

The battery is placed in the right corner, just on the sides of the case. This spot offers stability and a secure fit, but has a problem with the wheel arches. To securely mount the battery, you must create a clearance that lifts the battery over these arches.

The easiest way to do this is to attach two short 2" x 2" strips of wood to the bottom of the solar generator box using hot glue as shown below.

SUPERVISION:When installing the battery, please keep the protections provided over the battery terminals to prevent short circuit.

Once the glue has dried you can insert the battery, making sure it fits snugly against the sides of the case. Now take the universal battery clamp and adjust it so that it holds the top and bottom of the battery securely between the wood slats. Insert one of the supplied mounting screws through the top hole in the bracket and mark its position on the wall of the solar generator box.

You can now remove the battery and drill a correspondingly large hole in the cabinet wall at your mark. Use the adjusting clamp to index on the top hole so you can mark the bottom hole. Drill the bottom hole and replace the battery in the standoffs.

You can then attach the clamp, slide the two mounting screws through the holes, and attach the nuts outside of the box. These screws are often much longer than necessary and will need to be trimmed. Mark the bolts slightly longer than the nuts and remove the clamp. Cut off the excess screws, smooth the cut edges with a file or sandpaper, and reconnect the terminal to the battery.

SUPERVISION:When assembling the battery terminal, choose two o-rings from your kit that fit snugly over the screws and press them against the outside of the case. Now put washers and nuts on each bolt and tighten. This places the o-ring between the washer and the housing wall, forming a tight seal.

The complete battery assembly looks like this.

inverter installation

The inverter mounts to the main carry handle or to the front of the solar generator box with the cable ends pointing toward the battery.

Attitude

It is recommended to connect the main battery cables before installing the inverter. Laying the inverter places the positive wire at the top and the negative wire at the bottom.

To keep the built-in manual on/off switch clean, you may want to mount the positive driveline horizontally. The negative cable can be mounted vertically so that it exits at the top of the unit. When terminating the cables, use the supplied sleeves and make sure the connections are clean and tight.

Mounting

Place the drive a minimum of 5 cm from the cabinet floor to give the drive maximum clearance for cooling airflow. Also, make sure you never block any vents on the back of the unit.

Now mark the bottom two mounting holes, making sure they do not interfere with the handle. Drill holes and drive two #10 screws into the box wall from the outside. Use the same circlip and washer arrangement out of the box as the battery holders to ensure weather protection. Place the inverter over the socket head screws and insert and tighten the nuts.

You can now mark the top two holes and repeat the process. Once the unit is secured, you can tighten all the mounting nuts to secure it.

The result will look like this.

Mounting the charge controller and visor

Attitude

As with the inverter, it makes your life easier if you pre-wire the solar charger before installation.

Cut two 24-inch pieces of the 14-gauge red and black wire. Strip the insulation about ½-inch from one end of each wire. Plug the two pairs of wires into the connectors labeled Solar Panels and Battery on the charge controller. Be sure to connect the red wires to the positive (+) terminals and the black wires to the negative (-) terminals.

Mounting

The solar charger is mounted in the center of the top of the side handle of the case. The display is mounted next to it on the top hinged side of the lid.

Hold the controller against the wall of the box approximately ¾” from the top edge and mark the 4 mounting holes. Drill holes in the wall and drive the appropriate size machine screws through the exterior wall. Now secure the controller in place using the o-ring and washer method.

Repeat the process with the two mounting holes for the solar charger shield on the adjacent hinge side panel. Before drilling these holes, make sure they will not interfere with the hardware in the case.

The result will look like this.

Assemble battery maintenance

The last of our major hard internals is the Schumacher Battery Retainer. This component mounts next to the controller screen. It is also placed on top of the wall unit.

The battery holder is mounted with two screws and the assembly process is the same as for the other components. Once you are satisfied with the placement of the retainer, mark and drill the two mounting holes and secure the device to the box with machine screws. This should be the result.

The only internal components left to assemble are the fuse box and the negative rail. These are not forcibly assembled, but hot glued together. We'll discuss their locations as we wire the DIY solar generator.

Mounting of external components

Assembling the external components of this DIY solar generator is more difficult than the internal parts. Most of the time, you have to drill large holes or cutouts in the cabinet walls, which can be difficult. This is where a comprehensive set of hole saws and the Dremel tool come into play. Here's a quick tip for using a jig saw to cut holes on a regular basis. You can also use a hacksaw or even a hacksaw blade to make cutouts in the same way.

Here are schematic drawings of all external component locations for your reference.

SUPERVISION:Since most surface mount components are recessed, the device has a flanged handle and a recessed handle. The cutout footprint refers to the outline of the component that physically passes through the enclosure wall. For reference of all the external surface mount components in this build, here is an example.

A new:For each of the components that we will assemble in the future, check the case for thecutting dimensions.

Installing the Inverter Remote On/Off Switch

This switch is marked withBin the top component diagram above and is located on the left hand side of the handle side of the box. To mount the switch, measure the profile of the cutout and mark it in the position indicated on the box. Using a jigsaw or handsaw, cut out the outline you marked, making sure the switch fits snugly but loosely in the hole.

Smooth the cut edges with a file or sandpaper and insert the handle and body of the wrench through the hole. While the switch flange is firmly against the cabinet wall, mark the four mounting holes. Remove the key and drill the holes with a drill compatible with the mounting hardware that came with the unit.

You can then smear a bead of RTV silicone sealant around the inside of the switch flange and allow about 10 minutes for it to set. When the seal is tight, you can put the switch back in its socket and screw it down. The RJ 11 connector of the switch can then be passed under the converter and connected to the connection below the negative pole.

6 Way Trailer Plug Mount

This connector is used to interconnect the inputs of the solar panel and is located on the remote switch of the inverter. is marked asAnot layout diagram.

The cut profile for this connector is 1 ¼ inch and this is a standard size in the hole saw kit mentioned above. Mark the circular cut in the correct position and use the hole saw to cut the entry hole. If you don't have a hole saw, use the larger bit. You need to drill a pilot hole and open it up with a round file or the Dremel tool.

When the hole is complete and clean, push the dowel through the hole, hold it, and mark the two mounting holes. Then remove the connector and drill the holes. Before mounting the connector, you must first make the connections.

Locate the 14 gauge red and black wires that you connected to the solar panel terminals on the charge controller. Make sure you have the correct ones. Pull the wires through the trailer plug cutout and cut leaving approximately 6 inches of slack. Cut the insulation with the wire stripper and connect it to the vehicle connector.

The positive (red) wire connects to the center pin of the connector for that particular component. The negative (black) wire is connected to the ground pin. Once the wires are connected to the connector, you can apply an RTV sealant to the inside of the flange and allow it to cure. Then slide the connector back through the notch and secure with machine screws.

Assemble the 12 volt multiport capsule

This component supplies generators with low current 12 volt outputs. It consists of a dual 5-volt USB port with an LED voltage meter, a 12-volt cigarette lighter socket, and an on/off switch. This component is markedCin the plane of the floor and the hill in the middle of the wall below, close the handle cutout.

There are three cutouts for this component. Fortunately, they are all 1 1/8" in diameter, which is also a standard hole saw size. The best method for marking hole locations is to remove all plugs and switches from the flange and use the flange as a marking template. Alternatively, you can simply cut the holes through the flange openings with your hole saw.

Now reassemble the capsule and slide the output collars through the holes so that you can mark the four mounting holes on the flange. Drill holes and apply RTV Sealer around the inside of the flange. When the seal has set, fit the capsule, screw the flange nuts back onto the capsule from the inside and tighten the assembly with the screws provided.

15A AC Power Port Plug Assembly

The connector plug is used to supply 120 volt AC power to the generator to operate the battery retainer. is marked asDon the layout drawing and is the last component on the front of the box.

The cut profile for the port plug is 1 7/8 inches, which is not a common hole saw size. However, the 2" hole saw is only 1/8" or 0.125" larger. The connector socket has a generous, sturdy flange and three mounting holes, so the 2" hole saw would work just fine.

Place the plug in the correct position against the side of the can and work around the cut. Use the hole saw to cut the hole and smooth the edges. Route the integrated cable through the hole and hold the connector firmly against the case to mark the three mounting holes.

Remove the plug, apply a generous amount of silicone sealant around the inside of the flange and allow to cure. Then reinsert the connector and secure with machine screws. At this point you can plug the battery holder into the connector socket.

Assembly of 20A GFCI outlets and cover

We now move to the main carry handle side of the case to assemble our final two external components. The 20A GFCI plug is marked withBon the main component diagram on the carry handle page. This is the main plug for the generator.

The assembly of these components requires a bit of preparation. Before proceeding you will need to grind, sand or cut the two ribs on the surface of the box as indicated below.

This gives the outlet and cover a smooth, flat surface for mounting and ensures a tight seal. To do this, mount the cover and the plug, position it and mark the contour of the cover on the cabinet wall. Then trim the ribs flush to the box wall with a little extra clearance, as shown, for good measure.

This meeting is a two-part affair. The GFCI outlet is routed through the cabinet wall while the weather-resistant hinged cover attaches to the cabinet surface. Two screws go through the cover and outlet to secure the whole assembly.

Therefore, the profile cutout is the bushing itself, which can be marked by holding it against the bushing and tracing the outline of the bushing. The outlet location should be in the center of the imaginary rectangle formed where you took the ribs out of the box. Temporarily snap the outlet into the cover and check that the markings are correct.

You can now cut the hole with a jigsaw or handsaw as described above. When you're done, check that the outlet passes through the box and remove the bits from the line of cut. You can now mark the two mounting holes and drill them to accept #10 screws. You will probably need to drill the holes in the socket bracket and cover as they are designed for slightly smaller fasteners.

Configure and install socket

It's a good idea to plug the unit's extension cord into the electrical outlet before permanently mounting it. To do this, take the 12 gauge extension wire and feed it through the outlet hole. Plug the three-prong connector into the AC outlets on the unit and determine how long the cord should comfortably reach the GFCI outlet. To be safe, leave a bit and trim the excess along with the 3-way adapter.

Using a box cutter, carefully strip the outer jacket of the wire about 3 inches. Now use the wire stripper to strip ½ inch of insulation from each of the three connectors. Now connect the pigtail with this color code to the socket. The green wire connects to the green ground clip, the white wire to the silver neutral clip, and the black wire to the hot brass clip.

You can now apply a good bead of silicone around the inner contact edge of the cap and wait for it to set. Once cured, attach outlet to deck and thread machine screws through both. Place the washers and nuts on the bolts and fasten the assembly securely. The final step is to plug the braided connector back into the inverter's AC outlet.

175 Amp Quick Connect/Disconnect Plug Assembly

The quick connect/disconnect plug is labeledAin the image above and is used as a high current 12 volt DC output. This component allows you to jump start vehicles, use high charging 12 volt devices, and most importantly expand your battery bank out of the box.

The quick coupling has no flange and is difficult to assemble. It's probably safer to use the two built-in mounting holes to screw the plug against the cabinet wall. Unlike the GFCI socket, we'll make good use of the ribs on the casing here to give the plug enough clearance to attach the dust cap.

Place the base in the position shown and use a marker to mark the mounting holes, avoiding the ribs. Drill holes for the #10 screws and slide the dust cover around the hub. Insert the machine screws through the glands, the mounting holes and into the wall of the box. Secure the gland to the casing with a snap ring, washer, and nut.

Configure add-on

You can now get a set of 4 gauge battery cables that will be used to connect the outlet to the fuse box. The first step is to cut one of the standard terminals from each wire and strip away about ½ inch of insulation. This allows you to connect the quick connect plug terminals to the battery cables.

These are very heavy duty terminals and require a heavy duty crimp tool. If you don't have one, you can notch the ears with a round punch and hammer. Therefore, insert the bare end of the battery cable into the quick connect terminal and secure it. Repeat the process with the second wire.

Now insert the terminals into the socket with the snapped edge towards the top of the socket. As you insert the terminal, you will hear and feel a distinct click and the terminal will snap into place. Just be sure to connect the black wire to the negative terminal of the connector and the red wire to the positive terminal.

plug connection

The final step is to drill an access hole in the box and fit a rubber grommet for the wires to go through. First, select a grommet from your kit that will allow both wires to pass through with minimal enlargement of the grommet diameter. To do this, you may need to individually feed the wires through the grommet.

Once you've found a suitable washer, select a hole that matches the diameter of your internal part. Use the drill to drill a single hole about 3 inches past the baseboard. Pass the battery poles through the hole with the cable gland next to the plug and pull the cables towards the box.

Once the wires are in place, pull the grommet into the hole and push the rear flange or hub through it. This may take some time and you may need to use a screwdriver to push it out.

When positioned correctly, the rear flange is inside the cabinet and the front is outside the cabinet, with the cables held securely in its center. This protects the cables but is not 100% waterproof; So, apply some silicone sealant to the doorway.

The result will look like this.

DIY Solar Generator Wiring and Testing

Once all the components are assembled, you will have broken down the project as wiring is a relatively minor task. To keep it simple, we describe the wiring in 6 steps that follow a logical order.

• Wiring between inverter and battery
• Battery to negative bus and fuse box plus DC quick connect plug wiring
• Circuits for charging batteries.
• low current dc circuit
• AC GFCI outlet wiring
• Inverter Remote On/Off Switch

SUPERVISION:When connecting the components of your DIY solar generator, always leave enough slack in the individual cables to allow them to bend at the sides and bottom of the cabinet. This doesn't really apply to thick inverter cables, but it does apply to the restwire sizewith pure routing in mind.

Wiring between inverter and battery

First, the fuse box must be prepared (B) and negative bus (C), as indicated in the following figure. To do this, hot glue them firmly to the bottom of the box in the indicated positions.

Now place the positive and negative cables of the inverter in front of the battery and place the respective poles on the correct poles of the battery. This will give you a good idea of ​​the best wire placement to help you locate the inline plus fuse (A).

Once you're happy with the design, use hot glue to permanently mount the inline fuse. Now slightly tighten the clamps with the battery holders to keep everything in place.

Negative bus and fuse box plus quick connect plug wiring

The next step is to connect positive and negative links (A) from the battery to the fuse box and to the negative bus. You will use your second set of 4 gauge battery cables for this. The suggested route is shown below.

Fuse box and negative bus connections

Connect the positive battery jumper from the positive battery post to the main connector in the fuse box. Connect the negative pole to the battery and one of the master connection points to the negative bus.

SUPERVISION: Once the fuse box and negative bus connections are in place, remove them from the battery terminals for the rest of the build. This keeps the entire circuit isolated and prevents short circuits.

High Current DC Quick Disconnect/Plug Wiring

The first step in this part of the installation is to mount and connect the 150A circuit breaker (B) for quick connection/disconnection of the circuit. To do this, you need to arrange the wiring as shown and choose a location for the circuit breaker. Now use hot glue to securely attach the switch to the bottom of the box.

With the breaker assembled, you can cut the positive wire, strip the insulation, and crimp 2 x 1/8" ring connectors into each end of the wire. Connect both ends of the positive wire to the master terminals of the breaker (B).

Now connect the positive and negative leads from the externally mounted quick connect box to the main connection points on the fuse box and the negative busbar as shown above (C). Now you can tighten the main connector of the fuse box. Just be careful not to get too excited and break the plastic frame.

battery charging circuits

The generator battery charging section is divided into two sections, namely the solar panel and the external AC sections. The following figure shows the designs of these parts of the generator.

Solar panel input - A

The only wiring here is connecting the trailer's 6-pin connector to the solar panel's wiring harness. Connect the wires in the same configuration as the female connector, ie. h positive on the center pin and negative on the ground pin.

Solar panel entrance - B

This part of the circuit is already connected.

Input for solar panel - C

These wires are already connected to the charge controller and just need to be terminated and connected to the fuse box and negative bus. To do this, strip about ¼ inch of insulation from the ends of the battery output cables. Select two appropriate pre-insulated crimp terminals from the terminal kit (color coded for easy crimping). Use the correct color-coded notch on the crimp tool to securely crimp leads to leads.

Connect the positive wire to one of the spade connectors in the fuse box as shown above. Connect the negative cable to the negative bus bar.

External DC charge input - D

The battery backup DC cables are pre-wired to the unit and have ring terminals already installed. You need to cut them off and crimp a female wire onto the positive wire. Connect the positive lead to an open terminal in the fuse box and the negative lead to the negative bus bar.

External AC input - E

Connect the battery retainer cable to the connector plug extension to complete the external AC circuit.

This terminates the battery charger connections.

low current dc circuit

The 12 volt low current power strip consists of two plugs and an on/off switch. These outputs are fed from the fuse box and the negative bus and cable routing are shown in the two diagrams below.

This outlet is connected using a daisy-chain method that connects multiple items with a single cord or cord that connects to the power source. Is that how it works.

Connect a positive wire from a spade connector in the fuse box to a terminal on the power switch on the power strip. The other connection on the switch is in series with the two positive connections on the USB and cigarette lighter outputs. Connect the negative pole to the negative power rail and also to the two negative terminals of the capsule outputs.

SUPERVISION:

This component comes with a pre-assembled wiring harness. You can use these, but they are very light, so we recommend using your main 14 gauge wire.

ac outlet circuit

This part of the circuit consists of the 20A GFCI bypass already wired and connected to the drive.

Inverter Remote On/Off Switch

The remote cable is already connected to the RJ11 connector on the unit.

The final step in the wiring process is to reconnect the fuse box and negative bus cable to the battery and verify that all other connections are tight and secure.

That completes the wiring for your DIY solar generator and pretty much completes the build as a whole. All that remains now is to fix the wiring and test the generator.

testing the generator

Test all functions of the generator before completing the wiring. Ideally, place the generator in the sun. However, it does not necessarily require solar power and can also be done indoors with an artificial light source. At this point, the battery is connected and all circuits are active. The battery is usually fully or nearly fully charged. You can verify this using the digital display on the inverter.

Test the backup features

Before proceeding, you must insert the appropriate fuses into the fuse box. When the battery is connected and there are no fuses in the box, the 6 red blown fuse indicators will light up. You can now use fuses with the following values:

• Load rules Ladeschaltung -40 amps
• battery care -5 amps
• 12 volt low current pod circuit -30 amps

Test charging functions

Plug the solar panels into the trailer socket and turn them on. The charge controller display and status lights indicate a healthy charge cycle. Now remove the solar panels and connect an AC extension cord to the power outlet. The battery keeper should also indicate a good charge.

Test low current DC circuit

Turn on the pod switch and verify that the LED voltmeter indicates 12 volts. Plug a USB device such as a phone charger into the USB port and see if it works properly. Then use a device or device with a cigarette lighter plug to test the last outlet.

Test AC GFCI Circuit

Check that the power and reset lights on the GFCI outlets are on. Then plug any 120 volt AC device into the outlet and verify that the outlet is working properly.

Try High Current DC Quick Connect Plug

If you have an extension cord equipped with a quick connect connector with an appropriate 12 volt tester, you can use this method to test the outlet. If not, you can simply use a multimeter to check for 12 volts at the outlet.

Test Remote Inverter Switch

Monitor the inverter's LCD display and operate the remote switch test to turn the inverter on and off.

When all the components of the DIY solar generator are working properly, you can finish the build by cleaning up the wiring.

finish routing

One of the best ways to complete a wiring project like this is by using self-adhesive zip ties. This allows for permanently secure cable routing that is safe and looks neat. There isn't a lot of wiring for this build, so it's easy to get everything organized.

The final routing choice is personal and you will end up connecting the cabling in the way that works best for you. However, we recommend running the wiring along the bottom of the cabinet walls, with a minimum of cable crossing the floor. Feel free to use lots of flanged cradles, the more the merrier when it comes to this type of job.

And how much will this solar generator kit cost?

We calculate the cost of the DIY solar generator project only on the main components, the box and the consumables. The tools you missed, as most of the items will already be around and otherwise part of your DIY inventory. Here's the breakdown of the total cost.

• Box, parts and components:1.290 $.
• consumables:163 $

Total project cost:$ 1.453,00

Media Compatible Commercial Product:$ 1.500 a $ 4.000.

The cost of this design may seem high when considering the price of some commercial products with similar power ratings. However, there are some key points to consider when making a clinical comparison between dollars and cents.

• Many commercial solar generators do not contain solar panels. If so, they are the collapsible types in our component description discussion. We included a full spec 100 watt panel in our build and the rest of the components would support your solar panel extension.
• Choosing a good MPPT charge controller has been explained in the Component Selection section. You might save money on a cheaper PWM controller (like most commercial products), but you'd be sacrificing overall efficiency in the long run.
• Battery choice is another high cost factor in this project. The Optima battery isn't cheap, but it will greatly increase the overall efficiency of this project. We chose this battery because it enhances the overall design ethic of the project. However, other batteries are cheaper.can notoffer the long-term benefits of using the Bluetop battery.

last words

That's it for your DIY solar generator project. He has shown that he can not only build his own DIY solar generator, but can probably build a better and more flexible product than a store-bought example. Also, by using solar energy, you make our world a better place.

We hope this step-by-step guide to building DIY solar generators has made the process a bit easier and that it can serve you well with your DIY solar generator for years to come.

If you have any comments, questions, or suggestions to leave about solar energy projects, please use the comments section below.